A First-Timer’s Guide to Bali Beyond the Beaches

Bali rewards travellers who move inland. The beaches are the introduction; the interior is where the island actually distinguishes itself.

Ubud and the ridge walks

Base yourself in Ubud for at least three nights. The Campuhan Ridge Walk is best at sunrise, and the Tegallalang rice terraces are far more pleasant before 8am than at midday when the tour buses arrive.

The east coast

Sidemen valley offers the terraced landscape people imagine when they picture Bali, without the crowds of Tegallalang. Amed, further along the coast, has the best shore diving on the island — the Liberty wreck at Tulamben sits in nine metres of water and is reachable without a boat.

Nusa Penida

A 45-minute fast boat from Sanur. Kelingking Beach and Diamond Beach are the headline sights, but the roads are genuinely rough — hire a driver rather than a scooter unless you are experienced.

Practical notes

Indian passport holders receive visa on arrival for 30 days. Traffic between the south and Ubud can take two hours at peak times, so cluster your itinerary geographically rather than criss-crossing the island.